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Thailand – Day 7 (Phi Phi Islands)

I looked out the window after waking up with trepidation. Today I had an all-day island hopping tour booked and the weather folks said it was supposed to be raining and storming. Well imagine my delight when they were wrong again (seriously not one day has been what they forecaste aside from the heat) and the sun was out and shining. So I caffeined up, put on my bathing suit, doused myself in sunscreen and bug spray and headed down the street to meet my tour guide. The tour group I went with was called GR Tours and our guide Mung was excellent. He was professional, courteous, and the whole boat team took great care of us. It even included a buffet lunch on Phi Phi Don, which was pretty nice. Our first stop on the island hopping tour was Bamboo Island, and since our group had everyone arrive early we were able to leave early and get there about 15 minutes before the mass influx of other tourists. We all practically jumped off the boat to get photos before the 100+ other folks arrived. After an hour admiring the crystal clear water, we got back on the boat and went to the Phileh Lagoon, a shallow water cove with warm water where you could just float and relax in the shade of the surrounding cliffs. I met a very nice woman from Nepal in our group who was worried about floating, so I took her hand and we floated together for most of the time. The boat went around the corner a little to Viking Cave, but that area is off limits for bird nesting, so we went next to it and snorkeled for a bit. Honestly though the waves were really rocky and after accidentally inhaling the saltiest sea water I’ve ever tasted I started to feel icky so I didn’t stay out too long. Next stop was Maya Beach, another gorgeous location that was used in The Cove movie and had to be shut down to tourists because of all the damage people like us were causing to the coral.

Then we headed to Monkey Beach where wild monkeys run around. Now, I’ve had a LOT of experience with wild monkeys in my travels, and I’ve learned to have a very healthy respect for them and keep my distance. I know that monkeys are thieves, that they are fast and strong with big teeth and irritable temperaments and can turn on you in a split second. I don’t trust monkeys, at all. I did get off the boat, but mostly because I was starting to feel a little sea sick, otherwise I kept my distance and watched the rest of the tourists doing EVERYTHING the guides told them not to do. People were feeding them, trying to pet them, splashing them with water, getting super close for that Instagram photo, and I saw two people get attacked within minutes of getting onto the island. One person not in our group got bit on the leg, another person in our group got bit really bad on her arm. On the flip side, other people were having the time of their lives mostly with the babies crawling on their shoulders and hanging out. It was weird to see the two sides, and I admit I freaked out a little and yelled at a guy who tried to physically grab a baby monkey on his shoulder and set him down like a cat and the baby kept opening his mouth just waiting for the hand to get close enough to bite. Plus when you’re dealing with baby monkeys, you gotta know where mama is. The monkeys kept (justifiably) biting people and the people were too many and too dumb so we only stayed about 15 minutes then headed to Phi Phi Don, the main big island.

There we ate at the buffet, and had a little over an hour to wander and shop or do whatever. I mostly just walked the market a bit then sat in the shade on the beach until it was time to go. The trip back was uneventful, and far less bumpy than the way in. After they dropped us back off at Aonang I took my stuff back to the hotel and then headed out to the beach. I stopped by the massage place that had kindly let me take shelter during the heavy rain a couple days ago, and got a relaxing massage while waiting for sunset. Then I sat on the beach until the sun went down (3 for 3 on gorgeous sunsets here!) and got some food at that Family restaurant again (they knew who I was instantly, is that weird? I hope I made a good impression and that’s why they remembered.) Tomorrow I head off to Phuket, but to be honest I could have spent another week here just relaxing.

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Thailand – Day 6 (Ao Nang)

Today I did nothing. Well, that’s not true. You’re always doing SOMETHING, I suppose. What I mean is, I got up and drank my coffee on the balcony while reading my book, then gradually got my bathing suit on and headed down to the beach. I walked down the far end and hiked up the monkey trail, but saw no monkeys which was a bummer. Then I wandered back to the other side of the beach, and wound up at Noppharat Thara beach next door which wasn’t as nice or as groomed as Ao Nang beach but had thousands upon thousands of little tiny crabs that were rolling teensy balls of sand out of their chosen den locations leaving hairline pathways for them to move around. So I sat down and watched them work for a while and every time I moved slightly they would all scatter to their wee dens. Eventually some of them worked out I wasn’t trying to kill them, and ignored me even if I was moving. Then I tip-toed around them and walked that beach for a bit, then went back to Ao Nang beach. I stopped at a really nice restaurant called The Last Fisherman for sweet and sour chicken and a smoothie that was supposed to have rum in it but most definitely didn’t (still was tasty though) before heading back to the hotel to reapply sunscreen. After sunscreen, I went back to the beach and floated in the warm sea water until my fingers and toes were prunes, then sat in the surf and hunted for the tiniest of shells I could find for a while. Then I went back to the same restaurant for dinner and watched the sun set. So yeah, a lot of walking, sitting, laying down, and floating…not much of anything. I did book a boat tour to the Phi Phi Islands tomorrow but the weather is looking a little rough. Fingers crossed the rain stays away!

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Thailand – Day 3 (Elephant Nature Park)

This is it. Today is the day! The entire reason why I came to Chiang Mai! Before coming here I did a lot of research trying to find an elephant sanctuary that was legit, ethical, and had a great reputation. Elephant Nature Park kept coming up again and again as the Number 1 option, so I booked a day with them. I got up early, had some toast and coffee, and walked to the main office just down the street from my hotel. There were 7 of us in my group, and we hopped in a van and headed about an hour north of the city to the sanctuary. Once there we lathered up in sunscreen and 95% DEET bug spray (northern Thailand is somewhat of a malaria zone) put on their uniforms and started chopping melons and mixing up elephant sweet snackies. After making the snackies, we rolled them into balls and fed them to the three elephants we were going to be with for the day to make friends with them. Meadow was the biggest and oldest at 70 years old and the leader of the trio. Touchdown was 55 years old and second largest, and “little” Saitan was 45 years old and a bit of a diva.

See, the elephants associated with this particular park are all rescue, rehabilitation and (sometimes) release animals. They rescue elephants used in the circus, tourism industry, and logging industry and nurse them back to health. Ones that can be trained to self-care are released into a protected space in the park. Unfortunately the release part is rare since no one that privately owns an elephant wants to give it away while it’s still useful. So most of the 300 elephants in this sanctuary are either very old (the oldest being 103) or they are disabled in some way (for example, Meadow is blind in her right eye) so the owners could no longer make money off of them. Once they can’t make money, they sell them to the park (kind of a ballsy move if you ask me) or just chain them somewhere until they starve, or they outright kill and eat them. Anyway, they were kept in their big pen while we fed them otherwise they’d trample us to get to the food. The elephants here have no ropes or chains so the only reason they have to follow us is food, it’s all positive reinforcement. All three had been part of the illegal logging trade before being sold for tourist rides and you could still see the scars on their heads and where they had no hair on their backs from the saddles, so at this park they only use food to train them what to do for care and comfort. After they ate their snackies, we fed them bananas just to bribe them into liking and following us even more, then we set off into the jungle.

We walked up and around towards the river, then sat down under some trees where they ate corn while we listened to our guide tell us about them and the park. On our way to the park we passed by some elephants with people on their backs, and our guide said there were multiple parks here and not all of them were ethical or for the good of the animals. A lot of them are for profit. For example, at another point we saw a different group of tourists with two other elephants in the river and those two had ropes around their necks and the tourists were laughing and climbing all over them. All we could do was look down and watch, those people chose the exploitative tour that costs 2,000 baht rather than the conservation tour that cost 6,000 baht. Our guide just kept shaking his head when people in our group asked who those people were and how they were allowed to do that, and just said in Thailand if it makes money with tourists then they’re going to keep doing it.

ENP lets the elephants decide what they want to do, about halfway through our time Touchdown decided she wanted to be by herself, so she left the other two and wandered off for a couple hours and they let her. Eventually Meadow was the one that called her back with that low guttural sound they make, and she came out of the woods nearby and stayed with us again. Around lunchtime we left the elephants to do their thing and hiked up to a lookout point with spectacular views for a veggie and noodles lunch and sat around and talked for about an hour and a half. It was the hottest point of the day so they kept us in the shade with food and water (much like the elephants below) until the sun moved off a little bit. Then we headed back down to where the elephants were and went into the river to splash around and feed them bananas. I didn’t go in the water too much, just enough for some photos, because the bottom was really rocky, the current was fast, and I just kept thinking about what was in there and ewwwww! We dried off and walked back to our starting point, said farewell to our three girls, and hopped in the van to the main nature park area.

The main park isn’t just an elephant sanctuary, they also rescue hundreds of dogs, cats, water buffalo, cows, goats, and chickens. There was an animal everywhere you looked! Our guide took us down to the elephant portion and walked us around a huge open air enclosure and introduced us to almost all of the elephants. He knew their histories, temperament, ages, and ailments and kept us away from them since the ones in this area they were hoping to one day release and they didn’t want them directly interacting with people. He took us back to the penned area where the sick and disabled elephants were, including the 103 year old elephant, a new elephant they had just rescued 4 months ago that had been starving and was still under quarantine, and another elephant that had his front leg maimed by a trap and was still undergoing treatment with the hope it might heal enough to walk on again someday. On the way back to the bus, lo and behold the founder of Elephant Nature Park who is typically traveling to spread the word about elephant conservation just happened to be there today and sitting and talking with people. So I approached and shook her hand and thanked her for all that’s she’s done for the hundreds of animals just in this park, let alone the entire elephant rescue network she’s built throughout southeast Asia over the past 20 years. What an incredible woman! Everyone pretty much slept for the ride back to the city and I took a deep scrub shower as soon as I got back to my room. I have a free day tomorrow but it’s supposed to rain, so I’ll have to figure something out. This ranks second only to the shark diving for this year though so far!